- Active Lighting—where the light itself becomes a "lead character" in the drama. Think: "light event." Use hard, direct lighting and shadow play. Use a "cookie" or cucoloris to
cast patterned illumination or silhouettes.
- Passive Lighting—where the light simply reveals the subject and doesn't draw much attention to itself. Here the light is more of a "supportive character," rather than the "lead". Use soft diffuse lighting. Remember, hard, direct light can be softened with things like tracing paper.
Part A: Shooting in class (8/26), with your group
Part B: Do the same thing on your own, taking longer to build a more personal, more meaningful image, with variations. Work with a partner and you can help each other out. Due Monday 10/31, beginning of class.
Bring in a visually interesting single subject for table-top work. It should be easily portable and of solid, non-reflective material. Avoid glass bottles and similar shiny objects for now, as these can be more difficult to work with.
Bring in a light colored material, lace, table-cloth, textured wood, etc. Something to serve as table-top covering.
Part B: Do the same thing on your own, taking longer to build a more personal, more meaningful image, with variations. Work with a partner and you can help each other out. Due Monday 10/31, beginning of class.
Bring in a visually interesting single subject for table-top work. It should be easily portable and of solid, non-reflective material. Avoid glass bottles and similar shiny objects for now, as these can be more difficult to work with.
Bring in a light colored material, lace, table-cloth, textured wood, etc. Something to serve as table-top covering.
Using a single strobe, create pictures of your object in the table-top format that explores contrast and how it relates to the distinct qualities of light: active versus passive.
Set-up steps:
Set-up steps:
- On table-top, create an appealing arrangement that will be seen looking down onto the table from above (more or less)
- Establish came angle, zoom and focus on the tripod. Use the ladder, if required.
- Set ISO on meter and comer so that they match. Suggestion: 100 or 200
- Set the camera to Manual mode
- Choose an f-stop to use for the shot, considering depth of field considerations. For now, I suggest f11-f-16
- Use the meter on incident flash mode to measure the light and adjust the light to "fit" the desired f-stop. Remember that the strobe will always power up to the last changed setting, so if you want to adjust the strobe power, you will need to discharge the strobe ("pop it") so that it charges to your new setting
- Take a test shot
- Optimize your image until you have the best one. Plan to stick with this same composition for the full range of light explorations
- When exploring active options, use a "cookie" or cucoloris to cast patterned illumination or silhouettes. This can be made from cut paper, tracing paper, objects casting shadows, etc.
- Use a fill card to control the tone of the shadows
a "cookie"
Note that you may need to move the light (generally closer or farther away) from the cookie to further alter contrast and/or shadow play. For the shadow play to be sharp, move the light further away, the cookie closer to the target (subject), or some combination of the two.
If you change the placement of the light, you will have to re-meter. Always re-meter, if you move a light
If you change the placement of the light, you will have to re-meter. Always re-meter, if you move a light
Variations to shoot
- Low contrast/passive/no fill
- Vary the amount of fill until optimized (1-3 variations)
- Medium contrast, moderately active/no fill
- Vary the amount of fill until optimized (1-3 variations)
- High contrast, very active/no fill
- Vary the amount of fill until optimized (1-3 variations)
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